Out for an early morning bike ride before starting to pack up. I make hummus while Ashley showers. Once everything is packed we dump tanks and refill water. The gas station has been refilled so I add about a quarter tank to the RV and fill up the motorcycle. Then, back at the site, we hook up the trailer and load the motorcycle and head out of Death Valley, back over the mountains where we came in.

Long, steep climb to get over the mountain and then alternate between first and second gear to work our way down the other side. But it’s only 30 miles to the next valley, just outside of the park boundaries into BLM land. We pull a quarter mile off the road and park in the desert, set up for the night.

After lunch we hop on the motorcycle and head over the next mountain range, potentially our next leg of the route in the RV. The views are spectacular – Joshua trees up on the plateau, expansive vistas overlooking valleys and various mountains, and only a few dozen vehicles spotted in an hour’s ride. The Sierra Nevada appears before us as we begin to descend from the plateau and draw closer for the next 30 minutes while we aim for Lone Pine (where the RV will potentially be parked while we hike the John Muir trail this summer). We stop at the Visitors Center, which has all kinds of information and maps for the different parks and trails. We pick up a Delorme California Atlas – it shows BLM, National Forest, etc lands in addition to the landscaping on each section of ground. So we’ll have a good idea now of where we can boondock without having to be so concerned about who actually owns the property.

Stop at a little cafe/restaurant/ice cream parlor/gift shop to share a coffee and take advantage of wifi. This is the first time we’ve had any sort of phone signal and we wanted to let family know a) where we are b) where we’re headed c) that we’re fine. Plus, we need to look up scheduling for John Muir Trail permit applications and send out the weekly A-S email.

Online tasks completed, we head back toward the RV, where it proves too sandy to get the motorcycle loaded back on the trailer. We’ll take care of that tomorrow. Then it’s supper time – a delicious marinara sauce made out of the left-over homemade pizza sauce from Saturday served over spaghetti squash.

We read a bit before bed.

Woke early, ate breakfast and headed out. It’s still the weekend and we want to go hike the Golden Canyon/Gower Gulch Loop trail before it gets too crowded and too warm. We get there with only a few cars in the parking lot and head out to the trail, which wanders through Golden Canyon before meandering through the Badlands. We had a great time, wandering between the hills, up and over some ridges, and generally enjoying the different formations and scenery.

A trail branch headed toward Zabriskie Point (a don’t miss in the guide book) and we figured it was worth a try. Only a couple hundred yards away from the road and the parking lot, connected by a paved trail, it was pretty busy. Three times (twice by the same person) we were asked to take photos for hyperactive foreign tourists, which we pleasantly obliged. That was enough for us, so we headed back into the canyons, off the blacktop path and into the sand. It took only a minute or two to leave any sort of crowds behind so that it seemed we had the place to ourselves once again.

Working our way down the wash we scrambled down boulders and were treated to an expansive view of the valley, and of the gully that is hidden from the road. Back at the parking lot where we started, there were more cars but it still wasn’t crowded like yesterday.

Heading back toward the RV we detoured across the street from the campground and rode up the road to explore Mosaic Canyon. 2.4 miles up a rocky washboard gravel road almost proved to be too much for the motorcycle, but we made it and started hiking into the canyon. Again, we passed through the bulk of the crowds until only a few people appeared every now and again. We followed the trail until it seemed to end at a dry waterfall, about 20′ tall. Just about to turn around, we spotted a couple coming down what looked like a side trail who told us that there was more ahead. Following their advice, we headed on up the trail with more rock scrambling and boulder crossing. We ended up at a 50′ stone wall, polished smooth by years of water flowing down it (though it was bone dry now). The only ones there, it was a great place to sit and enjoy a bit of a snack (since it’s past lunch time now and we haven’t yet eaten) and soak in the silence. After a bit we begin to hear the echo of voices and it’s time to head on back down.

The ride down the road is so much smoother than going up, fortunately. It’s only a few minutes before we’re back at the RV, eat lunch and then chatting for a bit with our neighbors on either side. A trio of women on motorcycles pull up, find a spot, and park across from us. They’re on a road trip from somewhere – rare to see a group of only women. The gas station has run out of gas.

After the late lunch we have a few light leftovers for supper, sit outside to watch the sun set, and then head in for an early bed time.

After a morning bicycle ride we trade pedal cycles for the motorcycle and head north to Ubehebe Crater. It’s a volcano/lava chute that blew about 2000 years ago. While hiking around the big crater we walked right next to the Little Hebe crater. What a beautiful view! The craters, multi-colored layers of stone down their sides, all framed by mountain ranges every way we look.

A good number of people there, so we headed south a bit, past the ranger station, to find a spot in the desert off the road for lunch. Then it was time to mosey along. We topped off the gasoline, stopped at the visitors center for an additional map for the Golden Canyon/Gower Gulch Loop trail, and circled around Artists’ Pallete Drive again to get some photos that we neglected to stop for yesterday.

It’s a lot busier today than yesterday. Still no traffic jams but far more people out and about. We decide to pass on the hike this afternoon and head back home. There it’s supper time – our monthly pizza night! Home-made crust and sauce. It was delicious and well worth the wait!

After breakfast we hopped on the motorcycle and headed south to begin exploring Death Valley. We stopped at the Visitors Center for a map and then continued on south to Badwater Basin, the lowest point in the United States, -282 feet below sea level. We parked and walked out past the boardwalk, onto the salt flats for a few hundred yards. (And, yes, it really is salty. Our pinched sample tasted like dirty salt – because, I’m sure, that’s what it was!)

the “Sea Level” sign is way up on the cliff

On past, down to the Ashford Mill ruins. We sat and enjoyed lunch there. The park’s wildflowers are in full bloom – I think we stumbled into the perfect visiting time (we did, one of the best blooms in a decade or multiple decades!). The rocky/sandy fields are yellow with highlights of whites and purples. Without really trying, we spotted nearly a dozen different varieties of flowers. What a beautiful accent to the multicolored lands themselves!

Heading back north, we swing through Artists’ Pallette and enjoy the views there, up close with the blue, green, red, and yellow stone walls. On the way I spot a coyote hiding in the shade just off the roadside and circle back so that Ashley can see it. After filling up with gas (Death Valley is a BIG place and our motorcycle’s gas tank just doesn’t go quite far enough here) we head up to Dantes View. Another coyote slows down traffic by standing in the lane for a few moments before deciding to head back into the bushes as we pass by. It’s a peak overlooking the valley itself, giving us an amazing over-head view of the Badwater salt flats and the Panamint mountains on the other side.

Coyote enjoying the shade, waiting for the roadrunner

Overlooking the salt flats

Overlooking the salt flats

We circle back to the RV and plan tomorrow’s adventures over a delicious supper of stuffed peppers.

After seeing Bill and Carol off to work we set about packing up everything that had migrated into the house from the RV. Michelle stopped by with the girls before dropping Bella off at school, so we got to chat for a few minutes.

All loaded up, we headed over to Sprouts for produce and other perishible items. A quick stop at the gas station and we were off! On to Death Valley!

Long drive, and most of it is through the empty desert. Nice to be away from “civilization” and out of any sort of urban sprawl. We enjoy the drive, the open-ness. Don’t enjoy the 3 miles of gnarly wash-board gravel road where, I suppose, they’re supposed to be doing construction of some sort. The last leg of the trip, actually in the park itself, is up over a mountain. So it’s a few miles of climbing just to drop down into first gear and crawl back down the other side.

There’s a conveniently-located campground at the base of the mountain that we’re aiming for, in Stovepipe Wells. Only $12 a night, with water spigots and a dump station. Without that destination already in mind we’d have never been aiming to arrive at night – we would have stopped in the BLM desert just before entering the park and found a flat spot to stop.

The campground is basically a gravel parking lot with double-wide numbered spots. We pull toward the back and I get leveled while Ashley goes to pay. Quick and easy, if not the most amazing grounds we’ve ever stayed at.

After taking Bella to school, Michelle sat and chatted with us for a couple of hours. The twins played in their “cave” and so we were able to just sit and talk. Delightful! Once she left we headed to the grocery store in the RV to stock up on dry goods and ingredients for tonight’s going-away/thank-you meal for Bill and Carol. Back at the house we prepped everything and I packed away some things from the garage (bicycle stuffs, motorcycle maintenance items, etc) while Ashley cleaned up.

Then Michelle arrived and we headed to Ponte for a wine tasting. Just the three of us, so another chance to visit, this time without the interruptions of tiny voices (they do have awfully adorable little voices). She surprised us with a bottle of the taste that we liked the most. What a delicious treat that will be when we’re out in Death Valley! 😀

Back at the house, there was still time to make another batch of cookies. Ashley’s wasn’t super pleased with yesterday’s new recipe and wants to give it another shot (and she loves making cookies and giving them away). They do look different than yesterday’s batch and taste delicious, though less chocolatey.

We fire up the grill and warm up the oven. Everything was set to go and with all of the prep work done it wasn’t long before supper was ready and on the table. Bill and Carol had to work later than expected (which was fine with us, since we’d tested more than enough cookies and dough as an “appetizer”) and we started eating when Carol made it and Bill joined us when he arrived. Everything was delicious and we had a delightful time chatting with them.

Stuffed porkchops, grilled asparagus, baked stuffed tomatoes and a citrus kale salad. Wow!

After a slow morning we ran to the grocery store to pick up a few items for supper. Then headed over to Dan and Michelle’s to meet Michelle before she had to head off to work. They’re currently in-between babysitters so we’re going to fill in before Dan gets home.

Sophia and Olivia eat lunch and then spend the afternoon playing with Ashley. I’m still a stranger and they get quiet when I come around, so I put together supper in the crockpot, put away dishes, and get some reading done. Bella gets home and joins the girls for a bit before Dan arrives. We sit and talk before supper is ready, and stay after, until it’s time to get the girls heading toward bed.

We made the white bean chicken chili with cajun seasoning – everyone seemed to love it. The girls ate and Dan really liked it. Something different. 😀 Had a great day!

Read a book, completed some chores, ate delicious food, ran some errands, hung out with Bill and Carol.

Great day, relaxing and productive.

After breakfast we jumped on the bicycles to go and storm the hill on Pauba again. It certainly wasn’t easy but we made it, perhaps easier than last time. The other parts of the ride, getting to and from the hill itself, were easier. Or maybe they were just as difficult but didn’t use as much of our energy.

Back at the house we had lunch, grabbed showers, and then walked over to Dan and Michelle’s to join them on a trip to the beach. Piled into the Tahoe, we made it over to the beach at Oceanside. Lucked into a spot right in front of the bathrooms, so we only had to walk about 100′ to the water’s edge.

After laying out blankets and applying sunscreen, Ashley, Bella and I went and played in the water. Splashing in the shallows and jumping over waves. We had a great time! (It’s so weird to stand still as the water retreats before an incoming wave and you feel the sand dissolving underneath your feet.)

Ashley and Bella

Ready for a drink, we headed back to the blanket, wrapped in towels, and had some snacks. After chatting for a bit it was time to start heading home. We packed up and hit the road again, they dropped us off at the Bill and Carol’s.

After supper we watched “The Gambler”. I don’t think any of us were thrilled with it, but no one spoke up so we finished it out.